Letters de Havana, Cuba - Part 1

Hi folks. It’s Tom here, sitting back easy at a Mexican beach, and I just received this message from my friend in Cuba,

“Greetings from Havana, Cuba. Made it here safely. Let everyone know. Was surprised to see many Americans on the flight to Cuba. One such, a missionary from Texas, who let me knows that god wants me to travel to see his work. Then he  blessed me on my travels. Cuba was strictly no religion, but times are changing. Who doesn’t need a good travel blessing?

I was able to split the 25CUC (1CUC=$1USD) taxi ride. Travel score! The casa particular, room in a house, which I booked did not expect me (internet is scarce, only in hotels),and currently had a plumbing problem, so I was referred to another house. Now I have an amazing room/apartment, in a family’s house, which has a full shower, AC, kitchen and more space than I need, for 20CUC a night. Resourcefully, I wash my clothes in the shower; and boil my drinking water. From my stair case I look out into several other colorful apartments. There’s no internet of course, so I’m writing this ahead of time and paying good money to send it electronically to you(postal package prices).

Breakfast at the house 4CUC, and its pretty big loads of good fruit. Heavy on the delicious guava in the juice drink, jam, and prepared fresh. The rationed street food with the locals (1CUC) has been good as well, even if people don’t appreciate me in the non-for tourist establishments. Its hard to tell because even if they do appreciate me, they act the same way.

Havana is a camera’s dream; but so far its been more hassle than enjoyment. For the most part no one smiles or talks to me. Technically no citizen here should need anything. Its all provided. Unless they are a capitalist who want more for themselves. For the record, I enjoy all systems of government and wish them all the best. Its always interesting to see them in practice. I get the feeling that Cuba is not all-inclusive “for the people“; but for its people alone. And, that the country, not the people, despise having to subject their system to tourism for profit; at least we get to take a look. Maybe this notion will change outside Havana.

Havana screams of the vibrant culture and overabundance of money from a previous time, when the wealth was unbalanced . Now, still colorful, many grand buildings have this added texture of crumbling concrete and dark mold. Somehow this appears romantic for me. The lack of perfection; but I would not step on a single balcony. The cars are indeed old, but there are an equal amount of modern cars and buses. The joke is that there is a car museum, of old cars, and that the old cars in the museum are in worse appearance than the beautiful ones on the street. I love seeing classic cars packed full of people. Motorcycles with side carts. There is a lack of bicycles however. A shame. Walking has been fine for me.

I stumbled into a volleyball game. The indoor gymnasium touting to be the home of a long ago boxer “Kid Chocolate”, was in ridiculous disrepair. The bathrooms might have had a sleepy attendant, but solely for wiping down what was already broken. I have much more to explore in the showy “Old Havana”.

I’m figuring everything out. Learning lessons. I saw one hustle coming a mile away, similar to a hustle in Thailand. I went along hoping to prove myself wrong - I didn’t - but I didn’t have to stay long to look at the fake cigars, even after the exhausting walk to see the fake “festival de salsa”. Snooze. If anyone in any country, says “My friend, My friend” they are the opposite. I met some other Cuban guys in the street, hung out in their house and then went to the dance club with them “Casa de Musica”. Realistically no Cuban should have the 5CUC entry cost (10CUC for me). I hoped it would be worth me paying the money, and covering “my friend”. Its really just for tourists, although mainly Spanish speaking tourists, as I dozed off when a comedian broke up the Western music at 3am and told jokes for an hour. Too fast for me to understand. The dancing started to pick around 4AM. I got half a decent conversation in but couldn’t convince “my friend” that I was not interested in his fully-clothed dancing prostitutes. Pretty sure everyone in the club was a prostitute in some sense of the word. I hoped  to justify my extra spending (45CUC total), paying for two (which happens a lot), by having a fun experience - but it was boring. The dancing was boring. Everyone was fake and it was equal to any other club playing the same popular music. I had hoped for more fun, or live music and instead just felt distrustful of everyone. Finally, a Cuban guy, living in Vegas, drove me home for nothing. My other “friends” were supposed to cook me dinner for what I owe them, but fearing a lack of decent conversation, I didn’t go. The truth is I expected what I was getting into, carried little money, it happened, and now I can work from there with more positive experiences.

On a real night in Havana, masses of Cubans congregate on the sea wall or in large groups, just chatting like rebellious 7^th graders at the gas station in a small town. That’s their night. I haven’t seen the profusion of street music I’d hoped for, or any. No one hassles me in the night. Seems safe.

I’ve been impressed with my Spanish. Sometimes it flows like my English - I pretend. I use my limited vocabulary to say a lot, but easily get confused with hearing information and yearn to learn more words. I’m having fun with it, and glad I made the investment for a month of Spanish lessons. I can’t remember which language I conversed in now.

I’ll be shooting straight east or west away from Havana, and see what develops. I’m going to go on the attack with smiles, more hello’s, and some new words I learned, like “you’re lying”/ Not sure what my Cuba dream is, or was, but I’m hoping to find it. If not it’s a learning experience, as always, and perhaps a more expensive one. Alternately, I could be hanging out with the awesome family I left in my last days in Mexico; to instead put myself thru this less friendly environment. Mexico is a blessed country; hopefully friendlier things will develop here. Soon.

Since internet is not readily available writing again may not be possible until the end of the trip. Will do my best. ”

See Ya Later America

Goodbye America, for now. This guy is heading south to learn spanish. Found I could ride this Greyhound pass straight into Mexico. So, I'll be starting easy in Guadalajara (picking up near where I left off in May) and, from there, I'll follow my new mantra: "...sometimes you end up in a canoe on the Mississippi...". That's the best I can tell you about my future plans.
A special thanks to Tennessee, Louisiana, Mississippi, Colorado, Texas, Davy and his yellow canoe, older (and newer) friends -- all, for reeducating me on the heart of America; which I found starts south of the Mississippi, then flows upward. I have found a new part of America to remain proud of, thru rich musical history, distinct foods (perhaps too fried), evolving cultures, and unending genuine hospitality. It doesnt always make sense, yet it works.

One day, I have much more to explore in Louisiana, new friends to visit, and so many more canoe adventures to start around the country.

Happy New Year everyone!

Christmas Eve Begins! blow baby blow!

Chilled out beginning in India House Hostel. Probably the most laid back complete hostel Ive seen to date. Our private room last night had massive paint peelings. And I thought, heck yeah, New Orleans!

Found some red beans and rice with grilled catfish for lunch. Then hopped the trolley (yah the trolley $1.25) into town. The neighborhoods in midtown had great bars witha great vibe but I need to see the craziness downtown. Just found a brass band near Frenchman called the Spotted Cat. Its nestled in the side streets of colorful houses. Characters all over the streets. Big plans for awesome music tonight!

Hope everyone has a stellar xmas eve! I'll be thinking of snow, cozy fireplaces, christmas trees, presents, family, pierogis, borscht, post-feast napping,and the movie White Christmas (with the comments mom makes about it every year); as I celebrate another non-traditional xmas away from home because this where I landed. The hostel should have a gathering tomorrow.

Love everyone

Mile 95: Goodbye 'Dignity'; Hello New Orleans!

'Dignity' canoe & Davy

"I gave away the canoe last night in exchange for a po' boy and my bar tab" said Davy as he swaggered by my tent, after the bar. I felt indifferent. Ending at the port city of New Orleans would be a fitting end to the saga::.15 days and 350 miles. I got to experience a lot of the Mississippi, build up muscle, and take some great pics of a America's modern marvel. One of those trips where 2 weeks felt like 2 months.

This last 20 miles down river were relatively quiet at first. Little traffic. The clouds gave way to some sun, then we saw the city 3 times around false bends. We were defeated as we hit the last stretch and the river began to flow backwards in a massive eddy with the wind on us hard. A barge overtook another barge coming closer to us than any other on the trip -- for one last scare.

Sitting along the New Orleans river walk a couple took the $400 canoe for $40 (and a majority of the Walmart gear), so we can celebrate! We donated the rest of goods to the homeless people scattered about. They were happy. And like a mermaid losing her fin, we walked into New Orleans -- land people, again.

Bring on the holidays! I'm thinking Mexico City for New Years .

Rain. Wind. Rain. [Tornado Cancelled]

[Update: The tents started to blow violently; the rain came down hard. Davy's tent took off (while he was at the store) and I dropped a rock on top of it. Tornado sirens went off. I collapsed my tent, pulled in the canoe, and made it to Amour de Cafe (with my dry bags) to dry off and warm up. Now, far less grumpy. The tornado warning was eventually cancelled. The sky is clearing. I'm sure the waves are still choppy. We'll hold for the night].

[Earlier] Hiding in my tent and eating dry packets of oatmeal because its too windy to start the propane burner. Testing the limits of this childrens tent and its surviving! How is Walmart's Ozark Trail not sponsoring us yet?! The thick fog that set in last night and blanketed the coast like an eerie movie has lifted. I'm content reading Vonnegut a bit longer; but things are damp all-around. Maybe sun by noon? Too bad its just the NOLA airport and the suburbs (shotgun houses and Christmas lights galore) over the levy. No good stores; no Starbucks.

Mile 115?: Amongst giants; suicide alley part II

Today was blues skies and hot sunshine. For parts of the day one shore was peaceful and green; the other shore was larger and larger factories billowing smoke; then the shore became wall to wall lines of barges awaiting picking up. In a way this became the new norm, the steel levy.Passing by titanic sized ships being loaded with coal and chemicals was often awe-inspiring. Watching tiny men walk their lengths. We watched the movements of all things metal; studied them; and reacted to them with patience as we drifted by. Manmade rapids would appear an challenge us. Such a strange challenge. Land of giants.

Then the river gave way to a long serene stretch, like peaceful lake forged by miles of dam to one side. Its calm made me nervous. We came across a migration of thousands of tiny ducks amid the barges. They would fly and land near us again and again.

We are camped somewhere between barges. Workers are busy. A fire seems improbable. 20 miles outside New Orleans. My arms hurt <whine>

Mile 147: All is swell. Real swell.

We had to wait until noon for the river fog to clear. Zero visibility until then. Thunderstorms and rain loomed but we just got wind on us that created 1-2 foot waves the length of our path down glorious Suicide Alley. For 15 miles the graineries and shore factories were got bigger and closer. Awaiting barges lined the shore. But while we hit arm exhausting chops down this stretch there was little traffic. Im almost sad.
At this point the barge traffic stops and gives way to larger ships like the one pictures that head the rest of the way to sea. They dont move very often. We just pass a lot of them.
Still seeing eagles. Perhaps a migration.
We've made it to Gramercy. Davy is anxious. His last attempt at this river ended at this same town in 2010 when his expensive kayak was stolen. Just 150 miles to go. Or as he says "hes almost there". Being the hitchhiker; I'm only halfway there myself. ;)

Mile 177: Messy-ssippi River begins.

From Baton Rouge on the river has been dredged deeper for large ocean bound boats like the one above. Sure its bigger than a barge but im more afraid of the great width of a barge than the sheer hull of this ship. Anyways the big todo is that theres supposed to be 100s of boats of traffic and industry. We made 30 miles or more today and the traffic was light. No problems.
The shore is lined with nuclear. coal and natural gas plants. oil pipes. poorly regulated chemical factories that look like a futuristic smoky metropolis. But what i really noticed was a couple bald eagles in trees. a herd of cattle and calves following us along the swamp. a car full of people following us across the levy. and a lot of idle workers waving at our tinsel covered canoe .
Thought we hit faster water but maybe theres just more to look at on shore. perspective. well, might have rain or fog slowing us tomorrow but we've got a lot of supplies from Dollar General to feed us.

Grocery mirage!

This convoy was a grocery store on the water. Sadly, they deliver to barges by making runs to the grocery store andd have no inventory. I was tempted to call them on the river for a pizza. Thanks for nothing!

Mile 200: Plaquemine plaqueayours!

We made it 30 miles south of Baton Rouge on a sunny barge-free sunday! Canoe was intact. Prior to leaving I snapped this pic of Baton Rouge from atop the tallest state capital building.

Had some fun nights out in the spanish town in Baton Rouge. Most of the time was spent at the neighborhood Hound Dog Bar. A little time in the better known Red Star bar. and eating in a LSU bar, blackened drum fish. LSU has its own tiger! we also had the powdery desert beignet. even the healthy food is always somehow unhealthy around here. at least its not fried.

checked out the Louisana State museum. so much exciting history and culture around. learning so much about this little Mississippi river.

stopped to visit old scad friends Nick and Kirsten in Plaquemine. feeling recovered: good shower, good bed, awesome pets and a fabulous meal from the plantation they work at. wow that place is beautiful. i was impressed with the 12 ft doors!

onward we press! hopefully in Venice by xmas!

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Mile 228: Baton Rouge -- Go Tigers!?

Finished off the night in New Roads at the Daiquiri Diner (common here). The diner didn't serve food, but had a lot of daiquiris mixed with grain alcohol and other deadly sins; and there was video poker. We found the Cypress hotel nearby. Checked in at midnight.

Started the long walk back to the levy. Tried to hitch unsuccessfully, and stopped for some cajun Boudin balls, delicious spiced seafood and rice in a fried ball. Our friend from Jay Place's, the owner (and bartender), who's a cop by day, saw us roadside and picked us up. He'd just checked the hotel for us. He'd had people checking out canoe all night. So, I got my first ride in the back of a cop car.

We filled up on drinking water and pushed out. Made it 20 miles downriver. Hot and humid (in the 70s). Found a small spot dock amidst high walls of drift wood. Real Louisiana swampy looking. Peaceful crickets all night. And the glow from industrial complexes far off like a sunset. We had to wait until noon for the dense fog to clear off the river. We made Baton Rouge in 3 hours. Past oil pipes, billowing factories. and coal ports. Pretty ugly. A start of the reality to come. The rain finally hit (and hard) as we were docking. All the hotels were pricey and miles away. Luckily a manager in a grocery store took a risk (guess I'm a risk) and kindly put us up for the night. Awesome! Now lets check out the pubs.

Mile 267: Whats over the levy? New Roads = old roads.

mile 267. New Roads. We had a late start today. I was reading Slaughter House Five, while Davy caught a small catfish, prepared with butter on the fire. We are so domestic. The sun broke and we headed out after noon. Minimal barge traffic for the 30 miles. But we cut a barge fairly close, as we anticipated its turn wrong (rather it turned unpredictably and slow becomes fast with two boats heading at each other).

Amazingly, we saw a deer paddling the river. Just its head bobbing and it doggie-paddled fast across the 1/2 mile or more width. Who knew?

We pulled in thru the swamp, north of New Roads, and climbed over the high grass hill of a levy (I now know understand what a levy is). Looking down, we saw a house, field, a modern Baptist church and Jays Place, which we hoped was a bar. It was! Later described as the last black bar around the town, and no one in town had heard of it. We had a blast. Chowed do a huge portion of seasoned wings and played Domnioes for hours with Clyde, the bartender, while everyone else played Wii Golf (sadly no one needed my Wii tech support skills). Lots of love in that place. We hitched a ride 5 miles into the actual town, with a local from the bar. Now at the Daiquiri Diner (daiquiris are big here) which is across from McDonald's and a Subways and is apparently situated on False River, which we never saw. Small town; good people. Think we will be pressing on tomorrow. to Baton Rouge. 30 miles more.

BearGator Beware!!!

"I dont want to camp here. There's no firewood," Davy says, after we assess the sandy peninsula of an island. I call his bluff as we disembark, a beautiful pink sunset falling over the island. There were deer prints all over the sand. Plus, random large dug holes and a myriad of strange tracks (three clawed), one of which I believe to be tail mark. Gator tracks I say; Davy claims they were bear tracks. We decide to push on near dark and we cut across the mile wide channel to a safer shore spot. Firewood. Stars. Pork chop dinner. And,  did I mention the opposite shore is the notorious Angola prison. It was a tough day. A full 6 hours of paddling and an estimated near 50 miles of progress. A total of four buildings during that whole stretch. Tomorrow afternoon we should reach New Roads.

Knock Knock Its barge. Come barging in.

For the longest time no barges passed last night. We had made it roughly 20 miles down river in 3 hours.Past a dredging barge planted in th water to clear channel for barges. A barge or two snuck by in the night. One coming up river took what felt like an hour of distant rumbling and passed in the early night. The only sign of human life yet mechanical and ominous like the approach of Russian sub or alien warship. This morning there was loud sound of trees crashing and breaking. Of all the spots on the mighty a long barge had settled so close to the our shore that we thought we might have lost the canoe. Not sure who surprised who or if we chose the spot for the same reason. These boats are like aircraft carries to our native American canoe, or Huck Finn raft. This is not Mark Twains Mississippi. This is the lifeline of shipping to the center of the country. And compared to train or
truck shipping is super efficient. Rich with history.

Things I learned at the Under The Hill Saloon last night:

JD the bartender.

1) This is probably the closest I'll ever get to a real leprecaun, JD the bartender. Accents so different that we couldn't understand each other.
2) Those steel buoys that guide us on the river cost only $200 each. The Coast Guards main job is recovering all the strays that disconnect when the water rises.
3) I should have bought a D harp instead of an A harp. According to the bar singer who thought I looked like a fellow musician.
4) The story of the Bowie knife starts at Under The Hill, and ends at the Alamo.

Gambled away the fireworks.

I had to drop some pennies in a casino shaped like a steam boat. Turned a dollar into five bucks playing penny slots (walked away $2 up). And earned a free buffet visit for signing up for a free casino card. Score! sadly, while hiding in the dungeon for a half hour we missed the fireworks. guess they werent very special (word on the dock).

Mile 363: Natchez (not nachos)

Luck was with us this morning. Woke early to a perfect sunny day. Davey caught a cat fish and breakfast was omega filled. Some duck hunters boated up to us looking like an army boat. Nice guys. Chatted and gave us oranges and sodas. we covered the 25 miles in just 3 hours with the wind with us and sun on our face (red nose). Docked and entered the 1820 waterfront bar, Under The Hill saloon at noon and a patron bought us 3 beers each for our efforts. Checked into a $45 motel and headed into this historic town (one of the few saved from being burned during the civil war). Supposed to be fire works tonight for xmas. Theres a holiday ice rink but no one knows how to skate. Priceless.
new mantra - My legs are weak; my arms strong ; been in the canoe a little long; gonna need a beer to carry on. ~ me.

387 miles till we cant see land.

We have stopped just past 387 miles from the mouth of the Mississippi and 20 miles from Natchez. Avg 7 or so mph for the 4 hours on the water today. Doesnt to break early and try to catch fish. No fish but we did gather a load of fire wood; and I wandered around the forest down dirt hunting roads into the swamp and along the coast. Massive metal buoys have floated away and can be found all over. One was in a tree; theres a door in a tree too. Loads of birds. And trees with exposed roots. Another perfect sunset. Delicious stew made over the fire. Tonights the leaves shake and sound like rain. Barges rumble past and fling there spotlight about but not often. Tomorrow Natchez!

Thursday Night Lineup on Mississippi River TV

The bus got into Vicksburg nearly on time. I met some recently released convicts while I waited for the town taxi. Two guys in a car with an estimated price. My friend Davey and I killed a riverboat casinos lunch buffet (Grand Station Hotel). We covered 20 miles in 3 hours passing numerous barges, 10s of thousands of gathered migrating pelicans, past swirling pools and to this spot to camp. Feels like the middle of nowhere but with cell phone signal. Nothing else but mile wide river and the occasional barge with a spotlight. The sun went down perfect while full moon rose at our backs. Time to drink beer, eat hot dogs, and reflect on peeing into a plastic peanut jar and wide open spaces. wish me luck on cold night in cold walmart tent.

Be Prepared

Walmart run complete. This is my 17 dollar waterproof youth tent (which I pretested). The worlds most fashionable 15 dollar coast guard approved life jacket. plus 30 degree sleeping bag and mat courtesy of my buddy Jeff. He also bought me an emergency blanket (in case I need an impromptu Silver Surfer costume). Thanks for the support Jeff. Now for a 12 hour bus ride from Austin to Vicksburg MS full of delicious Saltys bbq.

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