Letters de Havana, Cuba - Part 1

Hi folks. It’s Tom here, sitting back easy at a Mexican beach, and I just received this message from my friend in Cuba,

“Greetings from Havana, Cuba. Made it here safely. Let everyone know. Was surprised to see many Americans on the flight to Cuba. One such, a missionary from Texas, who let me knows that god wants me to travel to see his work. Then he  blessed me on my travels. Cuba was strictly no religion, but times are changing. Who doesn’t need a good travel blessing?

I was able to split the 25CUC (1CUC=$1USD) taxi ride. Travel score! The casa particular, room in a house, which I booked did not expect me (internet is scarce, only in hotels),and currently had a plumbing problem, so I was referred to another house. Now I have an amazing room/apartment, in a family’s house, which has a full shower, AC, kitchen and more space than I need, for 20CUC a night. Resourcefully, I wash my clothes in the shower; and boil my drinking water. From my stair case I look out into several other colorful apartments. There’s no internet of course, so I’m writing this ahead of time and paying good money to send it electronically to you(postal package prices).

Breakfast at the house 4CUC, and its pretty big loads of good fruit. Heavy on the delicious guava in the juice drink, jam, and prepared fresh. The rationed street food with the locals (1CUC) has been good as well, even if people don’t appreciate me in the non-for tourist establishments. Its hard to tell because even if they do appreciate me, they act the same way.

Havana is a camera’s dream; but so far its been more hassle than enjoyment. For the most part no one smiles or talks to me. Technically no citizen here should need anything. Its all provided. Unless they are a capitalist who want more for themselves. For the record, I enjoy all systems of government and wish them all the best. Its always interesting to see them in practice. I get the feeling that Cuba is not all-inclusive “for the people“; but for its people alone. And, that the country, not the people, despise having to subject their system to tourism for profit; at least we get to take a look. Maybe this notion will change outside Havana.

Havana screams of the vibrant culture and overabundance of money from a previous time, when the wealth was unbalanced . Now, still colorful, many grand buildings have this added texture of crumbling concrete and dark mold. Somehow this appears romantic for me. The lack of perfection; but I would not step on a single balcony. The cars are indeed old, but there are an equal amount of modern cars and buses. The joke is that there is a car museum, of old cars, and that the old cars in the museum are in worse appearance than the beautiful ones on the street. I love seeing classic cars packed full of people. Motorcycles with side carts. There is a lack of bicycles however. A shame. Walking has been fine for me.

I stumbled into a volleyball game. The indoor gymnasium touting to be the home of a long ago boxer “Kid Chocolate”, was in ridiculous disrepair. The bathrooms might have had a sleepy attendant, but solely for wiping down what was already broken. I have much more to explore in the showy “Old Havana”.

I’m figuring everything out. Learning lessons. I saw one hustle coming a mile away, similar to a hustle in Thailand. I went along hoping to prove myself wrong - I didn’t - but I didn’t have to stay long to look at the fake cigars, even after the exhausting walk to see the fake “festival de salsa”. Snooze. If anyone in any country, says “My friend, My friend” they are the opposite. I met some other Cuban guys in the street, hung out in their house and then went to the dance club with them “Casa de Musica”. Realistically no Cuban should have the 5CUC entry cost (10CUC for me). I hoped it would be worth me paying the money, and covering “my friend”. Its really just for tourists, although mainly Spanish speaking tourists, as I dozed off when a comedian broke up the Western music at 3am and told jokes for an hour. Too fast for me to understand. The dancing started to pick around 4AM. I got half a decent conversation in but couldn’t convince “my friend” that I was not interested in his fully-clothed dancing prostitutes. Pretty sure everyone in the club was a prostitute in some sense of the word. I hoped  to justify my extra spending (45CUC total), paying for two (which happens a lot), by having a fun experience - but it was boring. The dancing was boring. Everyone was fake and it was equal to any other club playing the same popular music. I had hoped for more fun, or live music and instead just felt distrustful of everyone. Finally, a Cuban guy, living in Vegas, drove me home for nothing. My other “friends” were supposed to cook me dinner for what I owe them, but fearing a lack of decent conversation, I didn’t go. The truth is I expected what I was getting into, carried little money, it happened, and now I can work from there with more positive experiences.

On a real night in Havana, masses of Cubans congregate on the sea wall or in large groups, just chatting like rebellious 7^th graders at the gas station in a small town. That’s their night. I haven’t seen the profusion of street music I’d hoped for, or any. No one hassles me in the night. Seems safe.

I’ve been impressed with my Spanish. Sometimes it flows like my English - I pretend. I use my limited vocabulary to say a lot, but easily get confused with hearing information and yearn to learn more words. I’m having fun with it, and glad I made the investment for a month of Spanish lessons. I can’t remember which language I conversed in now.

I’ll be shooting straight east or west away from Havana, and see what develops. I’m going to go on the attack with smiles, more hello’s, and some new words I learned, like “you’re lying”/ Not sure what my Cuba dream is, or was, but I’m hoping to find it. If not it’s a learning experience, as always, and perhaps a more expensive one. Alternately, I could be hanging out with the awesome family I left in my last days in Mexico; to instead put myself thru this less friendly environment. Mexico is a blessed country; hopefully friendlier things will develop here. Soon.

Since internet is not readily available writing again may not be possible until the end of the trip. Will do my best. ”

See Ya Later America

Goodbye America, for now. This guy is heading south to learn spanish. Found I could ride this Greyhound pass straight into Mexico. So, I'll be starting easy in Guadalajara (picking up near where I left off in May) and, from there, I'll follow my new mantra: "...sometimes you end up in a canoe on the Mississippi...". That's the best I can tell you about my future plans.
A special thanks to Tennessee, Louisiana, Mississippi, Colorado, Texas, Davy and his yellow canoe, older (and newer) friends -- all, for reeducating me on the heart of America; which I found starts south of the Mississippi, then flows upward. I have found a new part of America to remain proud of, thru rich musical history, distinct foods (perhaps too fried), evolving cultures, and unending genuine hospitality. It doesnt always make sense, yet it works.

One day, I have much more to explore in Louisiana, new friends to visit, and so many more canoe adventures to start around the country.

Happy New Year everyone!